It is a puzzlement to me how simple events in your life can
echo down the years, and have surprising outcomes. A chance gift from a friend
plausibly caused me to be sitting on a train on an unremarkable Monday heading
for London. The gift as it happens was a book, just one of the many that now
crowd my house threatening the destruction of Cheshire when they achieve
critical mass. It was given by Chris Hall, librarian, historian of the Spanish
Civil War, author and exile Stokie now residing in deepest darkest Chorlton
(this is the kind of place where you can buy slave free, organic chocolate and
Danish furniture that looks just like the tat you burned on a bonfire as a
child but costs a £1,000 for a magazine rack). The book itself was entitled
‘Baron Wrangel, Russia’s White Crusader’ and covered the life of said Baron
Wrangel during the First and then Russian Civil War. Now I doubt it is a
balanced account as it was written by his son, however I found it enchanting in
a way that would be difficult to describe. As I grew up, that is to say got
older (Stoke is not the land of the giants, something to do with the mines,
smoke and general lack of daylight) Russia was seen as the enemy, Communist
barbarians, hell bent on reducing Hanley to a smoking ruin. Had Moscow Central been aware of the
Potteries, and felt that the Lomonsov porcelain factory had been compromised,
they would not have bothered with a tactical nuke as our city council had
already done the job for them. From that point on, I became a Russophile, and
have spent many years trying to get to grips with the nature of the beast from
childhood. Now in one of those conexions beloved of James Burke my school's
most famous ‘Old Boy’ Geoffrey Prime, spied for the Russians (this does not
feature in today’s prospectus!).
Some consider time to be linear so you can draw a direct
path from event to event; I am persuaded that it is rather like a meandering
river, the broad sweeps of which can bring events separated by years into close
proximity, and at times, forming Oxbow lakes beloved of geography teachers.
This may explain the phenomenon of Peter Stringfellow or Sue Pollard; creatures
trapped in a time of their own creation. Anyway, by whatever means, we must
jump forward twenty years to a field in Kent, where I am standing wearing the
uniform of a Russian officer, from the First World War, together with my
friends, in similar period attire. We were waiting for a visit from a Russian
diplomat who, allegedly, wanted to see what we did (peacock about, and drink heavily
in the main). Well, we have heard such things before, and as it was getting
late in the day, and people were getting restless, keeping them together was
like herding cats. Against all the odds, our diplomat did appear, about as out
of place as a quetzal bird and about as unexpected. He proved to be charming,
informed and a passionate historian, full of plans for various commemorations
over the next few years (The 1812 campaign, 400th anniversary of the
Romanovs, 100th anniversary of WWI) and he wanted us (as a group) to
be involved. The whole thing seemed a little unlikely, if somewhat tantalising;
salt, (but not bread), tucked firmly in our cheeks we returned to our revels.
As you may remember I had spent the previous weekend in
London attending ‘The Chap Ball’, trying to look marvelous and get lucky (with
varied results it has to be said!). On returning home late on the Sunday night
I chanced to check my e-mails, to my surprise there was one from the Russian
Embassy. The Ambassador of the Russian
Federation, Mr Alexander Yakovenko, was requesting the pleasure of my company
(well who could blame him). The down side of this was that the reception was of
course in London and on the following Monday. Now as I have the misfortune to
work for a living it did not seem realistic to be able to attend, so, I set off
for work as usual with the intention of sending a, thanks, but no thanks reply.
By chance my manager was on site that morning and I mentioned the invite, “well
why don’t you take the afternoon off and go then?” she suggested. Now I am not
keen on decisions, especially the kind that need to be made in a hurry; the
rational and the emotional sides of my brain are frequently at odds, like two
tramps fighting over a bone. Rationally it was far too short notice, it would
cost a small fortune, the logistics looked bleak, it may turn out to be dull
and that would have made me both sad and poor. Emotionally, it flattered my
ego, I had been chosen for something, provincial old me in the Russian
Ambassador’s residence in that there London. After a Spartan defence of the
rational decision, I threw away my shield, broke my spear over my knee and ran
in search of some silk robes and headed east with the vague feeling that like
visiting an Amsterdam coffee shop, it may end up with me having a headache in the
morning and a singed moustache.
By the time I had got home from work, showered, suited and
booted, printed my invite, grabbed my passport (photo ID required) and fed the
cat I was running half an hour late and as the train hurtled through the gloom
I was aware that I may be cutting things a bit fine. Where I live is about an
hour and a half away from London and probably twenty years behind, London I
still find exotic and at times frightening. Too big, too busy, too many people;
just cut a few and it will be perfect. Now while I can navigate the tube I
don’t have any sense of the time needed to get from one station to another, so,
as I emerged from Queensway tube station, it was already 6:20 pm and the invite
said 6:30. In a state of mild panic and no little apprehension I hailed a cab
(just like they do in the movies) and in a Le Carre style requested “The
Russian Embassy please, quick as you like”. 400 yards and £5.00 later (no time
for change) I was taking directions from an armed policeman. Kensington Palace
Gardens is a broad avenue of rather fine Italianate villas and it was mostly
deserted. Having found number 13 (funny
how that number keeps cropping up) I composed myself and strode through the gate
in an attempt to look as if I did this kind of thing all the time, I was
greeted by uniformed Russian who to my acute disappointment, did not say
“Papers please”. I presented my invite and passport nonetheless and was waved
in the general direction of the front door, somewhat at a loss as to how to
proceed I climbed a broad set of stairs and looked for a bell or door handle,
no sooner had I stretched out my hand the door swung inwards and I was greeted
by an elegant and attractive young lady (so far so good!), deposited my coat
and was shown to a seat.
In
all the excitement I have failed to mention the purpose of the reception, it
was the final event in the Embassy’s commemoration of the 1812 campaign against
Napoleon. The guests were an eclectic mix of historians, descendants of those
involved, museum staff, ex pat Russians and the odd re-enactor (in this
particular case I do not mean me, one chap had obviously not noticed the dress
code of ‘lounge suit’ on the invite and was wearing skin tight chinos and a Crimean war British
officer’s tunic). On the whole, I felt decidedly normal in their company and
had not seen anyone I knew in the room. The Ambassador made a pleasant speech
as did
Counsellor Artem A. Kozhin (the diplomat we had met in Detling). There was then
a very interesting talk by Dominic Lieven (Author of ‘Russia against Napoleon’)
on the 1812 campaign, or at least it should have been on the 1812, however
Proff. Lieven actually considered the events of 1813 to be more significant, so
most of it was about the events leading to the capture of Paris; I got the
feeling our hosts would have liked a little more Kutosov than they were
presented with. Talking of presentations, nobody went away empty handed, the
main speaker was presented with a copy of a book on the work of the painter George Dawe
(his portraits of notables from the 1812 can be seen in the Winter Palace in
St. Petersburg). The book looked a fine volume and had the whiff of something
that would make your eyes bleed at the till. We all received a commemorative
medallion in a kind of ‘I’ve been to Borodino’ style (which was unexpected and
quite charming) and then off to the Garden Room for nibbles and drinkies.
At this
point I met up with some people I knew from the 2nd Guards, indeed it was
Sergei that had arranged for us to meet the State Counselor in the first
place. Now I’m sure you will all be disappointed to learn that Fererro Rocher
were not on the menu and I never heard anyone say ‘Exshellenti!’ the only gold
stuff available was the Russian Standard Gold vodka which it has to be said
truly was excellent. I had a series of entertaining if careful conversations
with some of the guests, some of whom it was clear were quite at home in the
environment. I had the distinct impression I was being quizzed or tested in
some way, “Are you a Russian? You look like a Russian!” and with the greatest
of respect, some of them seemed to be clinging on to a past that was gone never
to return, a sort of Miss Favershamskia. That said one has to be careful to be
aware of one’s own prejudices, how would I react if my heritage had been
demonised if not eradicated from history. On a more positive note Counsellor
Kozhin thanked me for attending and was full of enthusiasm for the next few
years, 400 Years of the Romanov dynasty, 100th Anniversary of the
First World War etc. and declared it would not be my last visit to the Embassy;
this could of course be read in a couple of different ways and I am hoping it
does not involve extraordinary rendition!
Time flies
when you are having fun (and indeed, when you are a driver of a train) and it
was soon time to return home and to the mundane. Something strange happened however
between me leaving the Embassy and getting to the tube station, somehow I had
become ‘tired and emotional’ A very kind security man suggested that I make
alternative travel arrangements, now as he was 6” taller and 6 stone heavier I was
in no position to demure. At this point, I have to confess, I have not the
semblance of an idea what transpired, safe to say I was soon at Euston station
and was about to make another slightly ill informed decision. Now I could have headed off and spent a night
at my friend’s house in London and gone into work in the morning, unfortunately
this would have made me a little bit late (20 min), being strangely moral, and
an idiot, I thought it would be better to have late night and be on time. Now
the last train was supposed to have change where the wait was at least 90 min (unpleasant
but workable), regrettably it was actually four and a half hours. Time has the
ability to soften an experience and distance can add charm; that said, I doubt
that Jesus has got around to the ‘crucifixion? Well, it was a cultural norm’
phase.
Picture if
you can Gericault’s ‘The Raft of the Medusa’ and then imagine it had drifted
into the Barents sea, add a touch of the bleakness of existence and you may
have some idea of the waiting room of Birmingham International Railway Station
at 1:00 am. The wreckage of humanity sprawled across the benches was painful to
see, and while my liberal, humanitarian self was trying its best to empathise
with their (and indeed, my) plight, the titanium cored, cold hearted bastard of
self-preservation was screaming “DON’T BLINK for FUCK'S SAKE, DON’T BLINK!”.
Disturbingly, the security staff dropped in for a look once in a while, as if
to say “still got your wallet then?”. Time slowed to a glacial crawl, was that
really just a minute? It seemed like half an hour at least! I noticed an odd
fact, almost all of the people sleeping were men and the people awake and
pulling blankets/coats over them were women, and not just sleeping, sleeping
soundly, as if they were in a suite at the Dorchester protected by their pinched,
frail and frozen companions. And while we are at it, how can you be down and
out and be that fat? Have you been eating street children? The point at which I
almost gave up was when one of the residents fell off his bench while
attempting to answer his phone. Realising that he had injured himself he berated
his caller (at length) while smearing the blood from his scalp wound onto the
wall. Truth be told, I should have taken a picture, called it 'Modern Britain' and
sold it to the Tate.
All good
stories must come to an end; this particular one resolves itself with me back home
safe and sound (if frozen to the core) desperately trying not to go to sleep as
I had to be in work in four hours. The only solution was to employ the cat
alarm clock, there is no way you can sleep if a cat is licking the top of your
head and intermittently inserting a claw into your eye socket, cheers kitty, you’re
a pal. Throughout the following day I had a distinct feeling that a bearded
Crusader was whispering in my ear “You chose poorly!”.